Cool, dry, and overcast: perfect walking weather. My neighbours Oscar and Kirsten had made some signs to mark my departure.

They and their mum Jo walked the first few hundred yards with me to see me off.
My plan was to give myself an easy first few days, to get used to walking with a pack. As well, the first few days are across the Pennine hills and moors, which is probably the roughest and most demanding terrain on the English section of the walk.
The first stretch of the walk took me over the high moorland between Ribblesdale and Malhamdale. The high fells were still mottled with snow, which occasionally also covered the trail.

When I stopped for a tea in Malham, two women in the cafe saw my passport in my wallet and thought it was hilarious – they asked me if I was going far. I told them. I think they thought I was either joking or mad.
The rest of the day was easy walking along the River Aire, hardly more than a stream at first, and then across fields to Gargrave.


I arrived in Gargrave early enough to sit and relax by the river for an hour before heading for the night’s accommodation. A good first day – not too long, no rain, no routefinding issues, and a comfortable pub at the end of the walk.
Day 1 Route: Settle to Malham via Stockdale Lane, then to Gargrave via Pennine Way. Terrain: high moors, riverside paths, fields. Weather: cool, dry, mostly overcast with sunshine occasionally breaking through. Daily distance: 18.6 km, 11.2 miles. Cumulative Distance: 18.6 km, 11.2 miles. Accommodation: Mason’s Arms, Gargrave.